Showing posts with label Workbench. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Workbench. Show all posts

Friday, March 27, 2020

The Solution at Hand - Making a planing stop

I picked up a book not so long ago from Lost Art Press called The Solution at Hand, by Robert Wearing. You can find it HERE. This book contains many of Wearing's jigs and work helpers from his many years of printing with Woodworker magazine. My goal with this book is to try out as many of these items as I can and pass the results along to anyone with an interest.

The book starts with a workbench, guess I will skip that one for the time being. I really don't need another workbench, but I may use the designed later if someone wants one or I get another apprentice.

The first item I found of interest were two L-shaped pieces to lock your workbench in place. Well, even 'The Beast" will walk away from some heavy planning from time to time. I made these out of some scrap maple plywood and installed them at opposing corners of the bench.




I haven't had any more problems with movement, even with a lot of test work to try push the racking of the bench as much as possible.

Moving on to the next project, I decided to build a simple planing stop. I don't currently have one morticed into the bench top, so I figured I would follow one of Wearing's templates and make one I could clamp into the vise and that could handle narrow or wide boards. It would also use one of the holdfast locations I installed the day prior.


This old shelf has been under my feet for months. I've been hoarding it for over 10 years and four different workshop spaces. I have yet to find someplace worth hanging it in this shop so it has officially volunteered to be recycled. 


I took it apart, saving the brackets and 2x4s for later projects. I honestly hadn't even planned on keeping the shelf this long. 

I ripped a length from the shelf, 3-inches wide. Notice the holdfast being used!


I then took one of the scrap 2x4s and planed one edge slightly out of square. This detail will force the plywood strip down to the workbench top when the stop is clamped in the leg vise. 


I glued and screwed the two pieces together and the planing stop is ready for use!

It's such a simple jig and takes mere minutes to make. You can also make multiple stops at varying thicknesses as needed.

Dan.

Wednesday, March 25, 2020

Holdfast to the course, Mr. Smee. This worktop be gettin' holey!


I've been using my current workbench for well over a year now, waiting for it to tell me where a holdfast would be beneficial.

I look through the woodwork forums and always see the same bit of advice: "Only install holdfasts where they are needed." 

That sound good, but whenever I could use one I found myself inventing some other method to hold my work in place. After the task was over, I simply forgot about the problem and moved on to the next job. 

Guess what? You don't NEED a holdfast, like everything else in woodworking, there are multiple ways of getting things done. None of them right or wrong, just differing opinions. 

Anyway, I finally got around to adding some holes in the current bench. 


My first hand tool workbench in 2010 had holes set 2-inches from the front edge, every 6-inches to accommodate the very small tail vise I had installed. Most of the lumber I used at this time was pre-milled. I had very little use for the multiple holes. 


My second workbench, built around 2015, was a design was taken from one of  Roy Underhill's books and I followed the holdfast pattern as it had been laid out. I used this work bench mainly at woodworking shows and conferences. I used wedges to hold pieces in place in conjunction with the holdfast. 


The "Beast", my current bench, has a worksurface 6-foot long, 26-inches deep and 3-inches thick. It also has a tail vise that sees as much use as the leg vise, not for pinching a work piece to the surface but as an awesome quick-release second vise. I may add that ability in the future, but I get along fine without it. 



Searching for advice on where I should place my holdfasts, I located a couple articles written by Schwarz that laid out his favorite locations and the reasoning behind it. I emphatically advise you to search them out for yourself.  I used the drawing above as a source on where I wanted to place my holes. 


I bored this hole out without once thinking about how close it was to the leg. Luckily, it skimmed the outer edge of the leg, but doesn't stop the holdfast from functioning. 


I used my own measurements to lay out the spacing, allowing the holdfasts to overlap slightly in reach.


I've owned these Gramercy holdfasts since bench number one in 2010. Using 3/4-inch holes, they have a 9-inch shaft. Rather short for a holdfast, they are barely long enough to handle the 3-inch work surface. I will probably notch the gripping surface of the holdfasts to improve the grab even more. 


The reach is about 7-1/2 inches, so I spaced the holes on the work top to 14-inches on center. 


Here are all the highlighted hole locations. Five are located 4-inches from the back edge, these are for use when planning across the grain. The other three are for use with the planning stop, morticing and holding the work piece to the bench hook. 

More on the plane stop next time. 

Dan. 





Wednesday, March 18, 2020

Restore a Table Finish

After the glue had cured, I removed the clamps. I wasn't surprised that the project still needed a little persuasion of the mallet. With the multiple layers of folding pieces, it wasn't possible to get all the glue squeeze out. The addition of the painters tape made the "unsticking" a little easier, but not by much. I was still extremely worried that prying it apart would cause the remainder of the old glue joints to fail. Luckily, a few subtle taps and the table was operating as intended. 

I took a some 100-grit and hand-sanded the old polyurethane finish down a bit. This removed a little of the surface dirt and grime. 


I then gave it a rub down with Restor-A-Finish, a product I've been dragging along since North Carolina. I've never actually used it before, but looking at the MSDS showed me that it's basically mineral spirits and mineral oil. 

Nothing in this product will film or protect the project, and they even advise further coverage with their version of a wax product. Which, I'm fairly certain is a company packaging of paste wax. The only purpose of this product is to add a little oil back into the piece, which would shine and cover up smaller scratch marks. 

Since it is mineral oil, it wont cure and would cause certain other finishes not to bond. I would most likely cover it with a coat of linseed and beeswax, my go to finish. 


This restored table will be used by my wife, she is a Scentsy consultant and the table will come in quite handy during her visitation parties. I also made her a set of shelves which she also takes with her, but that would be another post. 




Dan. 

Monday, March 16, 2020

The 1st (or 100?) Blog Post / Repairing a Hand-me-down Folding Table

I've recently had a yearning desire to reestablish my presence on the blog. I'm certain this happened prior to the Coronavirus situation currently sweeping the world. So, the fact that plan to stay home anyway and reopen this blog is merely a coincidence.

I haven't decided what the upload schedule with be, but I work at home almost every day of the week so I have plenty to share.

An extremely condensed update of life since the previous posting in 2014:
- I graduated the ECC Historic Preservation Program.
- I worked freelance for about and then taught for ECC.
- I moved to Vermont, twice.
- The workspace has been officially christened as Dan's Wood Shoppee and is now located in the house. No power sanding or major power tools allowed, it's mostly a hand-tool space.

There, you are mostly caught up. I may expand on these things at a later date but for now I want to talk about the folding table.

Dad's Folding Table

This little table was built by my father and given to me in 2010, when I was roaming the USA.

The table was built of red oak acquired from a big-box store and joined using wood glue, no joinery. It held up about 10 years. After that, most likely due to temperature and humidity, the glue finally gave out. I set it and the few now-loose pieces aside until I found the time to repair them. In other words, cleaned the shoppee.

Last week, I pulled the table from its resting location, a little spot leaning against the wall in fron of the mobile bench shoppee and decided to repair the two slats that had experienced glue failure. I decided to use dowels as a hidden tenon and leave the original look of the piece. I could have used screws, but my OCD and back ground in preservation wouldn't allow it. As I tapped the first of the two repairs in place, the slight jarring of the tapping cause a majority of the remaining glue joints to fail completely. I now had one piece clamped in place and about five newly-loosened pieces littering the bench top. I had a moment of surprise and then proceeded as any sane person would, and laughed. I finished clamping the repair I had started and let the glue cure, planning to finish later. This is where the photos begin.

This is the starting point after the previous clamping and cure time. I've already cleaned off the old glue with a chisel. 

I decided to put a little painters tape this time as I noticed I couldn't get all the squeeze out cleaned up and I had to break away some of the excess glue. 

I begine by drilling out holes 5/16 diameter and about 1/2 inch deep. I then clean up the top edge of the hole using a countersink bit.

I then insert these little center finders to mark the joing piece. 

Like so. 

This is the dowel I've been cutting up to use as plugs. 

Round the leading edge. I used a pencil sharpener. 

Then I insert the dowl and mark it with a knife. 

Using a pencil, I then insert the same dowel into the receiving mortice. The use of a pencil for one hole and the knife for the other ensures that I can tell the two marks apart. 

Using a metric scale, I add both the marks together and mark the final length of the dowel 2-3 mm less than the total. 

After cutting it to length, I sanded it to reduce the diameter of the dowel slightly. 
 
Glue the dowel. 

Clamp it down. 

Repeat as required and wait for it to cure. You may have noticed that I clamped it to the bench. Thankfully, I have plenty more to work on. 

Thanks for following and feel free to leave comments or questions.

Dan.